Monday 10th - day 379
We visited Strumble Head today, to walk round the headland and back to the lighthouse. It was
very blowy but bright, which blew the cobwebs away, but the paths were very soggy still, and slippy underfoot, though we were treated along the way, to some lovely views back to Dinas Head.
In fact we did walk a little too far along the coastal path, and I began to fret as we looked for a path back to the road, that was almost lost to view as it had been submerged under a squelchy quagmire of walkers and cows activity. Unfortunately the light was fading quickly, so we had little choice other than to scrummage our way to drier land through muddy fields. The cows looked a little wryly at us as we skidded and floundered past them; but eventually we reached the farm yard, and had made it onto the windy narrow road back to Strumble Head lighthouse, just as light faded.
We had one more adventure to come, as we knew we would come to a flood – 1ft deep (too high for us to wade through!) by 15ft long which reached right across the road.
We neatly side stepped into a field and walked along side it. We did fine until we had to negotiate some tight barbed wire and a steep bank to get back onto the road, it was just a good job one of us had had the presence to bring their head torch – not attractive but very useful!
We enjoyed our usual post walk cuppa, in the warmth and protection of our car, as we watched the eerily atmospheric and ghostly spectres overhead sweep across the cliff faces - until we realised they were beams of the light from the lighthouse.
Tuesday 11th - day 380
We are under bright blue skies again today, but no walking planned, as we are making a tour of all the little bays along the coastal roads of west Pembrokeshire.
We started our trip at Abercastle, a lovely little cluster of cottages that sat above a grey stony harbour of a narrow protected inlet. There had been signs of industrial activity here, but they had long been laid to ruin.
Our next top was at Aber Draw by Trefin, another rocky deep sided bay, surrounded and
protected by the cliffs and here again we saw a ruined corn mill, that had thrived for the first half of the 20th century bringing sure employment, and homes to the locals, until the leading lights learned to process larger quantities of imported grain in larger mills, so closing all the small local ones, and destroying local communities.
From there we went on to Porthgain, another derelict but once splendid slate and brick quarries, as well as Lime Kilns. It was enjoying a renaissance though as a dreamy little spot for artists and lovers of seafood.
There were two art galleries, and we (foolishly) went in one to peruse, and will probably go back and purchase a a painting (memory from Wales) if the Icesave returns start to look imminent.
Our next stop was Abereiddi Bay, a wide granite lined sweep of rock, set against clear
aquamarine waters, scattered around it were little holiday cottages. We should have stayed here for wander as the coastal path looked very inviting as it rose to a promontory that would have given expansive views of the bay, but instead we decided to go onto Whitesands Bay for lunch (could have been a mistake though).
We walked along the beach after lunch (3.30pm) and as it looked like there may be a rewarding sunset we decided to stay and watch, it started well, but disappeared behind a cloud quickly.
On next to St David’s for a quick glimpse of the Cathedral, but we decided that there was too much to see, so should return tomorrow, as we needed to attend to the pressing matter of a completely empty fridge, Morrison’s was our final destination of the day.
We were too late to cook after our shopping expedition, so (again!!) we treated ourselves (we will regret all this profligate behaviour, one week before pay day!!) and went to the best fish and chips café in the whole of Wales (official), which just happened to be located in Letterston the village that we are staying in – how convenient!
Wednesday 12th - day 381
After a catch up of diary duties we were off to St David’s again. The plan was to visit the town –
or should I say city, as this small cluster of smart shops, narrow streets and pretty cottages, that are gathered round their own impressive and rather majestic square towered cathedral.
Having explored cathedral and shops we were meant to move on from St David’s to Solva, but we made the fortunate (or unfortunate) move of popping into a lovely colourful gift/
accessories/
clothes shop, and were still there a full 90 minutes and half a life story later (oh, and one rather lovely sweater, but we had better not mention that in the present financial climate!)
Thursday 13th - day 382
The grey miserable weather is back so no walking planned for today. Instead we had another touring day of the coast line, stopping at several places to explore a little further. Our first stop had to be Solva, as we had been robbed (!) of the opportunity the day before. I had been there as
a child on Easter holidays, and could vaguely remember its charming long harbour and colourful cottages, and remains of a once prosperous Lime Kiln. We spent a while there, and had our picnic lunch overlooking the bay, before we moved on to drive round St Brides Bay, which includes a number of smaller bays within it; the largest of which being Newgale Bay, a wide sweep of sandy 
beach, protected from the road by a stony ridge. Even in grim weather it was a popular place for dog walkers, and sand surfers. As we continued along the coast road we passed, what looked like something out of the Telly Tubbies, but on closer inspection found that it was an eco house, almost buried under the earth, and having just a wide back and front entrance, to make the most of natural light and enjoy the view presumably.
Our next stop was at beautiful St Brides, which was off the beaten track and quite hidden from
view. Here the earth and stone were red, making this bay much warmer than the others, and we lingered and wandered for a while here, in this peaceful haven, sharing it only with a couple walking their dogs. There was also a lovely little church here, sitting peacefully amongst a couple of holiday cottages. I imagine that this little spot is very popular in finer weather – but I am glad that we were left to enjoy it without the interruptions of others.
We should have stopped also at Druidston Haven, as this too was a beautiful and wild spot which I am sure entices many walkers, but we were running out of light and wanted to complete our tour at Wooltack Point, overlooking Skomer Island. With just enough light to encourage us to
take the short, but steep climb (oh, those steps that Sherpa Mint loves so well) to the stop of the headland. We walked up to the cliff face to look over at the sun setting in the evening sky. As darkness fell we drove on to Dale, at the mouth of an interesting estuary to drink our tea over looking the lights of Milford Haven. As we were looking for somewhere to park up, we were stopped in our tracks at the sight of the watery moon, escaping from behind the clouds to shine brightly enough to cause a reflection over the waters. We got out to attempt (unsuccessfully) taking a picture. But while DB was trying his best to capture the moment I stood and looked and absorbed the many bird calls enjoying the end of the day – pure magic.
Friday 14th - day 383
We have reached the southern side of our anti-clockwise tour of Pembrokeshire, and are looking forward to exploring the Stackpole area, which we were hoping to walk around, taking in Broad Haven and Barafundle bays; but alas we forgot to buy the very useful OS map (again,) so we studied the road map, hoping to secure a circular route in our memories (a lost cause usually!). Actually we got a bit lost finding the road to Stackpole, but fortunately spotted a little brown sign which read “Stackpole Centre” We would have ignored it but there was a National truss logo on the board, so comfort restored we pursued it. We soon arrived at a sort of residential Outward
Bound/Learning centre, and when I wandered into the deserted café area, I was not convinced that we were in a public space, but on the table there was an excellent walking map of the Stackpole Estate, with routes round the coastline – hurray, good ol’ NT, always sure to save the day!
There also a very helpful receptionist, who told us how to get on the path, and allowed us to leave the car in their yard – excellent!
The first leg of the walk took us across soggy farmland to lovely little Stackpole Quay, quietly situated with a National truss tearoom and carpark at the head of the harbour, joy, we were
sorely tempted, but we did not stop there as there was too much else to enjoy. We walked across the Warren on to absolutely breath takingly beautiful Barafundle Bay, with its wide breadth of golden sands protected from the elements by rocky cliffs and outcrops. As it was a mile or so from the car park, we suspected that it was protected from the over use of excitable families and visited mostly by the determined who could carry their deckchairs and thermos’s or the walkers who, like us stopped for a sit and their sandwiches before moving on to the next glorious view.
There were several choices of route, but we chose to stay with the cliff hugging path up to
Stackpole Head, that took us on to beautiful Broad Haven. There were some strange land falls along the cliff edges, and we were not sure whether it had been erosion or mining that had caused these great deep gashes in the ground, but we did know that we had to be vigilant to avoid dropping down them!
Once past Barafundel we mostly had the path to ourselves, but we did meet several joggers, who looked a strange combination of navy blue and puce, but we had to assume that they knew what they were doing!
We left the coastal path at Broad Haven and returned to the centre along a well laid out path
that ran along side the estuary, where we believe there is to be seen a feast of Lily pads, but they must have been further up, as we did not spot them.
Once back at the car, we drove back round to Broad Haven to make the most of the rest of the day light whilst we enjoyed another lovely cuppa!
As dusk fell we were joined by two sets of fishermen, who (presumably wearing thermals) set off for a little night fishing!
Saturday 15th - day 384
The weather was again miserable, and we didn’t really leave our warm cosy caravan in time to make the most of the day. However we did have a lovely picnic lunch sat at the top of Skinkle
Haven overlooking yet more spectacular cliff scenes. We should maybe just have parked up and walked from there, but we wanted to visit Tenby, which we also wished that we had arrived at two hours earlier, so that we could have made the most of this colourful Regency seaside resort, 
where the town walls created the boundaries for the narrow streets of the shopping centre. We just had time to go for a quick turn round the main sights if we were going to get Saundersfoot in the light. Of course we failed, and after a quick walk round the harbour in the dark, we decided to move on to Pendine for our cuppa and a walk on the beach. Big mistake, we failed absolutely to find our way to the sea, and finally ended up at St Clears before we gave up and went home.
Sunday 16th - day 385
This is our last day in Pembrokeshire, and I think that we will be a little sad to move on, as we have been surprised and delighted with all that we have seen whilst here, The weather alas though is gloomy again, but we are determined to make the most of it. We have also decided to go and purchase the print that we had found at Porthgain.
We started the day though back at St David’s as I wanted to get some Welsh hand made chocolates as a present for Vic’s birthday. That done our next stop was Porthgain, where we 
stayed just long enough to make our purchase, before heading for Abereiddi. This was the little harbour that we both felt that we would have liked to explore further a few days ago, but instead went on to Whitesand’s Bay.
We ate our lunch overlooking the sea where there were a couple of young families playing on the beach, trying to burn off excess toddler energy, even in the drizzle!
After a little sit, we got our waterproofs on and set off up the side of the bay to join the coastal
path.
What we had not realised was that we standing in a National Truss treasure, and quite near a site of special scientific interest (SSSI) The notice board told us all. Abereiddi was once a thriving slate quarrying community of some 50 plus souls. There were to be seen, visible remains of the
workers houses, works buildings, a watch tower, and a tramway that connected the quarry to Porthgain, where the slate was sent to be processed. There was also a disused quarry that was now flooded with deep aquamarine coloured water, and surprisingly(!) named the Blue Lagoon – also now an SSSI!
We were off to investigate! The Blue Lagoon was indeed lovely – and blue, and was thoroughly explored.
We carried on round the headland for an hour and were treated to more views of glorious and
remote bays, then followed the path that took us back round to the bay, just in time for…. Guess what…. Oh yes a lovely cuppa!
We visited Strumble Head today, to walk round the headland and back to the lighthouse. It was
very blowy but bright, which blew the cobwebs away, but the paths were very soggy still, and slippy underfoot, though we were treated along the way, to some lovely views back to Dinas Head.In fact we did walk a little too far along the coastal path, and I began to fret as we looked for a path back to the road, that was almost lost to view as it had been submerged under a squelchy quagmire of walkers and cows activity. Unfortunately the light was fading quickly, so we had little choice other than to scrummage our way to drier land through muddy fields. The cows looked a little wryly at us as we skidded and floundered past them; but eventually we reached the farm yard, and had made it onto the windy narrow road back to Strumble Head lighthouse, just as light faded.We had one more adventure to come, as we knew we would come to a flood – 1ft deep (too high for us to wade through!) by 15ft long which reached right across the road.
We neatly side stepped into a field and walked along side it. We did fine until we had to negotiate some tight barbed wire and a steep bank to get back onto the road, it was just a good job one of us had had the presence to bring their head torch – not attractive but very useful!
We enjoyed our usual post walk cuppa, in the warmth and protection of our car, as we watched the eerily atmospheric and ghostly spectres overhead sweep across the cliff faces - until we realised they were beams of the light from the lighthouse.
Tuesday 11th - day 380
We are under bright blue skies again today, but no walking planned, as we are making a tour of all the little bays along the coastal roads of west Pembrokeshire.
We started our trip at Abercastle, a lovely little cluster of cottages that sat above a grey stony harbour of a narrow protected inlet. There had been signs of industrial activity here, but they had long been laid to ruin.Our next top was at Aber Draw by Trefin, another rocky deep sided bay, surrounded and
protected by the cliffs and here again we saw a ruined corn mill, that had thrived for the first half of the 20th century bringing sure employment, and homes to the locals, until the leading lights learned to process larger quantities of imported grain in larger mills, so closing all the small local ones, and destroying local communities.From there we went on to Porthgain, another derelict but once splendid slate and brick quarries, as well as Lime Kilns. It was enjoying a renaissance though as a dreamy little spot for artists and lovers of seafood.
There were two art galleries, and we (foolishly) went in one to peruse, and will probably go back and purchase a a painting (memory from Wales) if the Icesave returns start to look imminent.Our next stop was Abereiddi Bay, a wide granite lined sweep of rock, set against clear
aquamarine waters, scattered around it were little holiday cottages. We should have stayed here for wander as the coastal path looked very inviting as it rose to a promontory that would have given expansive views of the bay, but instead we decided to go onto Whitesands Bay for lunch (could have been a mistake though).We walked along the beach after lunch (3.30pm) and as it looked like there may be a rewarding sunset we decided to stay and watch, it started well, but disappeared behind a cloud quickly.
On next to St David’s for a quick glimpse of the Cathedral, but we decided that there was too much to see, so should return tomorrow, as we needed to attend to the pressing matter of a completely empty fridge, Morrison’s was our final destination of the day.We were too late to cook after our shopping expedition, so (again!!) we treated ourselves (we will regret all this profligate behaviour, one week before pay day!!) and went to the best fish and chips café in the whole of Wales (official), which just happened to be located in Letterston the village that we are staying in – how convenient!
Wednesday 12th - day 381
After a catch up of diary duties we were off to St David’s again. The plan was to visit the town –
or should I say city, as this small cluster of smart shops, narrow streets and pretty cottages, that are gathered round their own impressive and rather majestic square towered cathedral.Having explored cathedral and shops we were meant to move on from St David’s to Solva, but we made the fortunate (or unfortunate) move of popping into a lovely colourful gift/accessories/
clothes shop, and were still there a full 90 minutes and half a life story later (oh, and one rather lovely sweater, but we had better not mention that in the present financial climate!)
Thursday 13th - day 382
The grey miserable weather is back so no walking planned for today. Instead we had another touring day of the coast line, stopping at several places to explore a little further. Our first stop had to be Solva, as we had been robbed (!) of the opportunity the day before. I had been there as
a child on Easter holidays, and could vaguely remember its charming long harbour and colourful cottages, and remains of a once prosperous Lime Kiln. We spent a while there, and had our picnic lunch overlooking the bay, before we moved on to drive round St Brides Bay, which includes a number of smaller bays within it; the largest of which being Newgale Bay, a wide sweep of sandy beach, protected from the road by a stony ridge. Even in grim weather it was a popular place for dog walkers, and sand surfers. As we continued along the coast road we passed, what looked like something out of the Telly Tubbies, but on closer inspection found that it was an eco house, almost buried under the earth, and having just a wide back and front entrance, to make the most of natural light and enjoy the view presumably.Our next stop was at beautiful St Brides, which was off the beaten track and quite hidden from
view. Here the earth and stone were red, making this bay much warmer than the others, and we lingered and wandered for a while here, in this peaceful haven, sharing it only with a couple walking their dogs. There was also a lovely little church here, sitting peacefully amongst a couple of holiday cottages. I imagine that this little spot is very popular in finer weather – but I am glad that we were left to enjoy it without the interruptions of others.We should have stopped also at Druidston Haven, as this too was a beautiful and wild spot which I am sure entices many walkers, but we were running out of light and wanted to complete our tour at Wooltack Point, overlooking Skomer Island. With just enough light to encourage us to
take the short, but steep climb (oh, those steps that Sherpa Mint loves so well) to the stop of the headland. We walked up to the cliff face to look over at the sun setting in the evening sky. As darkness fell we drove on to Dale, at the mouth of an interesting estuary to drink our tea over looking the lights of Milford Haven. As we were looking for somewhere to park up, we were stopped in our tracks at the sight of the watery moon, escaping from behind the clouds to shine brightly enough to cause a reflection over the waters. We got out to attempt (unsuccessfully) taking a picture. But while DB was trying his best to capture the moment I stood and looked and absorbed the many bird calls enjoying the end of the day – pure magic.Friday 14th - day 383
We have reached the southern side of our anti-clockwise tour of Pembrokeshire, and are looking forward to exploring the Stackpole area, which we were hoping to walk around, taking in Broad Haven and Barafundle bays; but alas we forgot to buy the very useful OS map (again,) so we studied the road map, hoping to secure a circular route in our memories (a lost cause usually!). Actually we got a bit lost finding the road to Stackpole, but fortunately spotted a little brown sign which read “Stackpole Centre” We would have ignored it but there was a National truss logo on the board, so comfort restored we pursued it. We soon arrived at a sort of residential Outward
Bound/Learning centre, and when I wandered into the deserted café area, I was not convinced that we were in a public space, but on the table there was an excellent walking map of the Stackpole Estate, with routes round the coastline – hurray, good ol’ NT, always sure to save the day!There also a very helpful receptionist, who told us how to get on the path, and allowed us to leave the car in their yard – excellent!
The first leg of the walk took us across soggy farmland to lovely little Stackpole Quay, quietly situated with a National truss tearoom and carpark at the head of the harbour, joy, we were
sorely tempted, but we did not stop there as there was too much else to enjoy. We walked across the Warren on to absolutely breath takingly beautiful Barafundle Bay, with its wide breadth of golden sands protected from the elements by rocky cliffs and outcrops. As it was a mile or so from the car park, we suspected that it was protected from the over use of excitable families and visited mostly by the determined who could carry their deckchairs and thermos’s or the walkers who, like us stopped for a sit and their sandwiches before moving on to the next glorious view.There were several choices of route, but we chose to stay with the cliff hugging path up to
Stackpole Head, that took us on to beautiful Broad Haven. There were some strange land falls along the cliff edges, and we were not sure whether it had been erosion or mining that had caused these great deep gashes in the ground, but we did know that we had to be vigilant to avoid dropping down them!Once past Barafundel we mostly had the path to ourselves, but we did meet several joggers, who looked a strange combination of navy blue and puce, but we had to assume that they knew what they were doing!
We left the coastal path at Broad Haven and returned to the centre along a well laid out path
that ran along side the estuary, where we believe there is to be seen a feast of Lily pads, but they must have been further up, as we did not spot them.Once back at the car, we drove back round to Broad Haven to make the most of the rest of the day light whilst we enjoyed another lovely cuppa!
As dusk fell we were joined by two sets of fishermen, who (presumably wearing thermals) set off for a little night fishing!
Saturday 15th - day 384
The weather was again miserable, and we didn’t really leave our warm cosy caravan in time to make the most of the day. However we did have a lovely picnic lunch sat at the top of Skinkle
Haven overlooking yet more spectacular cliff scenes. We should maybe just have parked up and walked from there, but we wanted to visit Tenby, which we also wished that we had arrived at two hours earlier, so that we could have made the most of this colourful Regency seaside resort, where the town walls created the boundaries for the narrow streets of the shopping centre. We just had time to go for a quick turn round the main sights if we were going to get Saundersfoot in the light. Of course we failed, and after a quick walk round the harbour in the dark, we decided to move on to Pendine for our cuppa and a walk on the beach. Big mistake, we failed absolutely to find our way to the sea, and finally ended up at St Clears before we gave up and went home.Sunday 16th - day 385
This is our last day in Pembrokeshire, and I think that we will be a little sad to move on, as we have been surprised and delighted with all that we have seen whilst here, The weather alas though is gloomy again, but we are determined to make the most of it. We have also decided to go and purchase the print that we had found at Porthgain.
We started the day though back at St David’s as I wanted to get some Welsh hand made chocolates as a present for Vic’s birthday. That done our next stop was Porthgain, where we stayed just long enough to make our purchase, before heading for Abereiddi. This was the little harbour that we both felt that we would have liked to explore further a few days ago, but instead went on to Whitesand’s Bay.We ate our lunch overlooking the sea where there were a couple of young families playing on the beach, trying to burn off excess toddler energy, even in the drizzle!
After a little sit, we got our waterproofs on and set off up the side of the bay to join the coastal
path.What we had not realised was that we standing in a National Truss treasure, and quite near a site of special scientific interest (SSSI) The notice board told us all. Abereiddi was once a thriving slate quarrying community of some 50 plus souls. There were to be seen, visible remains of the
workers houses, works buildings, a watch tower, and a tramway that connected the quarry to Porthgain, where the slate was sent to be processed. There was also a disused quarry that was now flooded with deep aquamarine coloured water, and surprisingly(!) named the Blue Lagoon – also now an SSSI!We were off to investigate! The Blue Lagoon was indeed lovely – and blue, and was thoroughly explored.
We carried on round the headland for an hour and were treated to more views of glorious and
remote bays, then followed the path that took us back round to the bay, just in time for…. Guess what…. Oh yes a lovely cuppa!
No comments:
Post a Comment