Monday 17 November 2008

Week 55 - 27th October to 2nd November

Monday 27th - day 365

We headed back into Liverpool today for a second visit.
Our first stop was Port Sunlight a fascinating museum, which gave real insight into the village that the Lever Magnate had built to house his factory workers in a clean, healthy and progressive environment.
We walked round the streets to explore the work of the four Architects who were employed to design practical and lovely houses.
We spent a long time there we were so impressed, before we drove back through the tunnel to visit the cathedrals. Our first stop was the Catholic cathedral. It was absolutely fabulous, and quite different, as it was round with lots of deeply coloured glass panels, making the lights and shades very atmospheric. The central altar was very simple with a large steel sculpture of a crown above it, and the whole effect was evocative and soul stirring.
From there we walked on to the C of E Cathedral, past a set of concrete sculptures called “Case Histories”, which were several piles of suitcases of famous Liverpudlian heroes.
The C of E building was quite different, but also very atmospheric. We had a good wander round the warm red stoned ornate neo-gothic halls, and there was a quiet reflective corner that held my attention for quite a while.
We had to move the car, if we were not to get a ticket, before we could go and visit the Albert Docks and the Liver Buildings.
Unfortunately it was going home time and there was total grid lock, and when we finally got to the docks we found that it was £4 per hour to park, so there was nothing for it but to get back in the car and head for home, deciding to revisit another day!!

Tuesday 28th - day 366

We moved today, and just to make it fun, it rained absolutely all night, so that we woke up in the middle of a huge puddle. Then as if that was not fun enough it started to snow, and continued to snow until the tops were quite white.
Other than that excitement we had an easy journey to Llandudno Junction. On the final leg of the journey we had a little wobble as we followed a complicated set of instructions along a narrow winding road that did not look too helpful, if in fact we were going in the wrong direction!! But a very helpful fellow camper arrived just as we doing a final map check, to guide us down the last narrow and quite steep hill, Hallelujah! We were also a little concerned that we would be parked in the middle of a field/pond but we were met by the farmer who suggested that we park on the hard standing just outside the field, and just by the toilet (much appreciated) so I think that we will be OK for the next week, although we have no phone signal/radio/internet and little TV – should be a quiet week!

Wednesday 29th - day 367

We had to attend to the laundry this morning, so going out to play was delayed until we had hung our clean cloths up to dry, not something that we could do outside as the rain is unceasing!
But after lunch we went out to visit Colwyn Bay. Mostly it was a bit disappointing and faded, but we parked up by the promenade and walked a way down the sea front. The temperature has plummeted, and it is hard to think that we were walking into Chester in our Tee shirts just a few days ago!
We walked round the front to Llandrillo-yn-Rhos, the next village, and just as we were about to make our return we came across what we thought was a model church, but on closer inspection (and reading the bill board!) we discovered that it was built by St Trillo, centuries ago as a retreat, seats six, and communion is still held there once a month!
Before returning to the splendid isolation of Glan Conwy we went for a couple of pints and an internet session at a local hostelry. Once complete we returned to the caravan for supper and a showing of Swordfish as there was no TV!

Thursday 30th - day 368

We are in the grip of winter, with temperatures this morning that called for the wearing of fleeces, anoraks and gloves!
So, fully equipped for the arctic we set out to visit the very lovely Conwy.
It is just down the road from Llandudno Junction, so we didn’t have far to go. It isn’t a large town, but it does have three bridges, one for the trains, one for the cars and one for the pedestrians – which was the smartest as it was a suspension bridge designed by Thomas Telford, and had a toll house at the end. Now owned by…. joy of joys… the National Truss, so of course we stopped to look in.
We learned from the very helpful steward that the house went with job of toll collector. The job went to auction every year or so, and workers would bid for the right to take the position. The successful candidate would move into the house and then work 24 hours a day, seven days a week to collect the various tolls. We had to presume that they stayed in position long enough to recoup what they had paid for the business and made enough profit to exit before they expired from the endless days labour. We also learned that the largest family to live in this three roomed house had 4 children (and no bathroom of course).
After our trip round the toll house we went back over the suspension bridge to go round the castle built by Edward 1 in 1280(ish). Mostly it was made up of lots of turrets, and an excellent rampart walk that was in tact so that we could walk all the way round the castle, enjoying panoramic views and freezing temperatures! So afterwards we went for a warming cuppa and Barabrith.
Once we could feel our fingers again we went on to Aberconwy House, the oldest house in Wales, also owned by the NT, for a look at a 14th century house that had for a while been a hotel. We met a very interesting chap whilst there who was a font of knowledge about word origins, and here we learned that food left over from the meal was kept in a dole cupboard and handed out from there to the poor, who came - claiming the dole! Also we learned that before tables were secured they were called boards that were loose and could be turned. There was always a “day to day” side and a best side, used when entertaining, and the table would be turned for guests – hence the phrase “turning the tables”, and finally we learned that the children stood to table, the women sat on a bench on the other side, and the man sat at the head of the table on a chair, hence the phrase – “Chairman of the Board”!
This little town still had more delights to offer, so we took a walk through the lovely town centre and once we had found the entrance, we walked along the town walls round to the harbour, with again fabulous panoramic views. Our final leg of the tour took us past the smallest house in Wales, only about 3m wide, but it was closed by the time we were passing by, as well as this lovely stature of mussels.
Finally we went and parked up by the river (with no view!) to do the computing, whilst having a cuppa (from our own picnic box), but the computer battery had run down, so we sat in the dark, drinking our tea, before heading back for supper – and some TV, as the TV hero has managed (using a little insulation tape) to boost the reception enough for it to be watchable!

Friday 31st - day 369

We visited Angelsey today, but the weather was not warm enough to make an early start (even for us). But once off we drove through Bangor, but didn’t stop as we wanted to get over to Anglelsey. So it was over another of Telford’s suspension bridges, which took us over the Menai Straits.
Our first stop was at Beaumaris, a lovely Georgian sea side resort, that was also the main port for the island before the bridge was built, but retains its harbour, a pier, (which was full of young crab fishers and their fathers!!) apparently the finest unfinished castle in Wales, courtesy of King Edward 1, and fine views across to the Great Orme and Snowdonia. It was still very cold, but quite sunny so we ventured out for a walk.
After a spot of picnic lunch we went on to Red Wharf Bay, a bay that I had crossed as a child, with the family, one holiday. Unfortunately we were still a way out, walking on the wide bay when the channels started to fill as the tide turned. Father (hero of the hour!) had to carry two small girls plus one anxious wife across muddy sand and increasingly wider channels to safety – and I can’t remember any of it!
We chose to walk along the shore line of this wide bay that was still filled with deceptive channels that would soon, for us also, be too wide to cross easily as the tide came in. It has to be said that it was a bracing walk, but we shared the sands with a few fellow masochists, and some birds that were busy foraging. We spotted some interesting faces along the way, including an Eigret, and some Widgeons.
The weather conditions were also interesting as it was very windy for most of the walk, and for a while there was a sleet storm which really stung our faces, and we were glad to get back in the car.
It was going dark by the time we left, so we just had time to drive up to Moelfre to walk again in the driving and painful sleet, along the path for a short way to see the statue of the fisherman at the Heritage Centre.
Finally, completely cold and wet, we went for a warming pint and computing session in the local hostelry before making the journey home.

Saturday 1st - day 370

Well, we didn’t quite achieve what we had planned today, but we still had fun, strangely! We had hoped to take the tram up to Great Orme Head, and walk back round the headland back to Llandudno. The weather was looking good, and we were ready for some sun on our faces, but unfortunately whilst we attending to a bit of necessary business in town, we found a craft (and hobby) shop. We have decided to try and seriously cut Christmas costs this year, and as we have a folder full of fab photos, we thought that it would be a good idea to make our own Christmas cards; and in the craft shop were all the things that we needed to create the finished article, great, the only problem was that we have spent almost twice as much as we would have done!!! We had to spend the next hour convincing ourselves that we would need to use the guillotine many times beyond Christmas- lets hope so.
Anyway we spent some much time “attending to business” that the sun was sinking behind the hills when we had finished, and we needed food, so we found a warm spot for Tiffin and tried to decide whether we would go to one of the bonfire parties on offer. The tea obviously revived us, because we had a bright idea. We decided to drive to the summit of the now dark Great Orme, and watch the firework displays from our lofty vantage point. We waited 45 minutes for the first display to get started (it was also the display that we had planned to drive to). Over ten minutes we spotted a goodly number of Roman Candles, but little else that might light up the sky, but we were now rather cold, even in the car, so we decided to return to our cosy warm caravan, and a plate of stew and dumplings!

Sunday 2nd - day 371

We left the coast today for the first of a few days exploring Snowdonia. The weather was a lot warmer and sunnier today, meaning that we were able to really get out and stretch our legs, for the first time in a while it feels like. From Llanrwst we took a windy single track road through the heart of the Gwydyr Forest which was full of beeches and larches that glowed golden in the autumn sunlight.
We needed a map to help us get round safely, so we drove on into Betws-y-Coed to make our purchase, but ended up stopping there, and enjoying a rather strenuous walk by the river up to the magnificent Swallow Falls, then on into the forest, before returning back to the village.
Betws-y-Coed really reminded us of a cross between Grasmere and Skelwith Bridge, with the slate houses, shops and bridges, the tumbling waterfall and rocky outcrops directing the flow of the clear waters through the woodland. By the time we returned to the village, the lights were coming on, giving the place a very cheery and welcoming glow. We had packed a pot of tea which we drank in the dark again, but this time we were able to phone the family before we returned to splendid isolation!

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