Monday, 22 September 2008

Week 49 - 15th to 21st September

Monday 15th - day 324

Oh the rain, the rain – will it ever stop! We didn’t get out until mid afternoon again, as it was just too miserable. It wasn’t improving much by then but we were getting fed up of watching the water levels rise around us!
So we decided to go on a tour of the Antrim’s coasts and glens (there are nine all together).
It has to be said, that there was not a lot to see as we drove through Glenarm, as the cloud was so low, but the weather improved enough for us to enjoy a lovely walk to Layds church, just beyond Cushendall. It was a in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by trees and beside a stream (actually it was a torrent in the present climate!) There was a very peaceful feel to the place, and we were certainly glad that we had made the effort to visit it.
We drove home through Glenaan, and the cloud had lifted just enough to see something of one of these famous glens - but only just! It reminded us rather of the N York moors – but wetter!!
But that was it for us in N Ireland, as we are off to Donegal tomorrow.

Tuesday 16th - day 325

Well the rain has stopped, which we are grateful for as we are leaving Ballymoney to drive over to Dungloe on the coast of Donegal.
The journey was mostly painless, but there were some long slow hauls up the hills around Glenveagh.
We were interested to know what would happen at the boarder, but the only recognition that we had left Ulster, and entered Eire was that the petrol prices dropped and were shown in Euros, and the speed signs were in kilometres – oh yes, and the quality of the roads got steadily worse – just as we remembered!!!
By mid afternoon, we had arrived at our next lovely little site in sunny Dungloe, and were quickly settled, and caught up with all our chores. And guess what – after weeks of almost non existent internet connection, we are in the land of 3G – hooray.
The evening sun light was so inviting that we stepped out before supper for a wander down to the sea front. We were surprised by what we saw of Dungloe, it is a busy and upbeat little town with a lovely water front, which this evening was set off nicely by a glorious sunset.

Wednesday 17th - day 326

Hooray, the sun is shining again, and we did hear today that an Indian summer has been forecast – lets hope so!!
Our first stop of the day was the co-op for provisions. It should have been a quick trip, but we were invited into a lengthy conversation with a local farmer, who told us all about his brother’s ability to knit from the age of twelve, which rather delayed us choosing the breakfast wheaten loaf. We already love these local folk, they are so friendly, though we imagine it can be quite tricky if you are in a rush (I don’t think that is part of their vocabulary though!) Our next visit was to the tourist information centre where we were given all sorts of exciting leaflets, but as the weather was so lovely rather than return to the caravan to peruse, we set off north to explore Rosses Point. Why did no-one tell us how beautiful Donegal is? Admittedly it has been shown off in all its glory, with a crystal clear light and blue sky, white washed houses and golden sand, but boy, were we blown away by its breath taking beauty. Even Chris kept eulogising and that is saying something!! The roads were “interesting” as they weaved us through the little lanes, one of which took to a very splendid cemetery right by the bay. But the best delight of the day was found just over the bridge at Cruit Island, a delightful isthmus. The narrow pot holed road took us past thatched holiday cottages to a golf course overlooking the islands of Owey and Aranmore. We parked the car by a bay where horse jumps were stored for the beach races, and had a make shift snack, before we walked across the sands, back to the cemetery, that we had visited earlier, and took the road on back to the bridge, and returned to the car along the edge of the bay as the tide started to return.
We continued up through Kincasslagh another lovely hamlet of white washed cottages, (and home, we discovered, to the crooner Daniel O’Donnell) and up to Annagary, before heading back down the wonderfully smooth and wide N56 back to Dungloe.

Thursday 18th - day 327

There is something not right here, the rest of Ireland (and I think the UK) is basking in sunshine, but for some reason this little corner of Ireland is under a huge rain cloud.
Once again we waited for improvement; this gave Chris time to do our banking. I am glad to say that we are still feeling safe in these uncertain times. We learned today that Lloyds TSB (where our savings are) have taken over HBOS (where our mortgage is!) so we hope that this vast financial power house will be safe from the crash and burn that seems to be happening all around at present!
As it didn’t look like the weather was going to improve we decided to visit Donegal. Oh the Irish roads, we jostled and bounced unceremoniously all the 56 Km to our destination. Fortunately it was through a lovely landscape for most of the way, so we had a good chance to absorb it as we drove slowly past! But Chris held firm to the steering wheel and got us there in one piece!
We were in need of tiffin though when we reached the welcome sign, so we went straight to the craft village for some sustenance, but didn’t stay long afterwards, as the crafts were a little beyond our price range.
As we parked up in town, the rain really started, and it has to be said every time we came out of a shop (where we had entered to find shelter) the rain was coming down harder.
We were soon looking very like drowned rats, and all interest in exploring the castle, and water front had been washed away, so we sloshed our way back to the car for the return jostle!
As we were leaving David Bailey expressed concern that we had no photographic memories of Donegal, so he parked up and rushed off in the downpour to take some pictures. You understand that I would have gone with him, but someone had to mind the car!

Friday 19th - day 328

The weather is still bad, so we decided to leave the coastal walking for another day, and instead drove to Dunveagh National park, an hours drive across the most beautiful and wild moorland –especially atmospheric in the swirling mists!
We did make a stop at a new at Craft Gallery, but were not tempted (well one of us wasn’t)
We were in need of tiffin when we arrived so stopped at the visitor centre for a bowl of soup before catching the shuttle bus down to castle. The 19th century castle, which had been owned by wealthy Americans was itself not interesting enough to us to join the queue for the 5pm tour, but the gardens were lovely and extensive, so we bought a map and went on walk about!
We took the path up to a view point, but there was little on view, as the clouds were down, but it was good to get a breeze on our faces instead of the humid mozzie filled air of the gardens themed walkways. We let the last shuttle bus go back without us, so that we could walk back along loch side, we almost had the place to ourselves, except the staff driving past us on their way home.
The little village of Crolly was on the route home, so we took a moment to locate Leo’s Tavern (home of Clannad,) which was hosting its 40th anniversary weekend, and we wanted to see if festivities had begun, but we were a little too early (it was before 9pm!!) so we returned home with plans to go tomorrow.

Sunday 21st - day 330

We are heading up north today to visit Rosguill, beyond the “Bloody Foreland”, now there is a name to stir the imagination! We are deep in the Gaelacht area, where the signs (as well as the spoken word) are in Gaelic – but not necessarily in English! And the weather has also been very Irish – sunshine and showers!
We kept to the coastal road, and were treated to some fine views of the Donegal cliffs and bays, before stopping at Bunbeg. It was a funny little place, charming but grubby, if that is possible. On our walk along the harbour we passed a sign saying “open,” it looked like a house but the sign saying “crafts” tempted us so in we went – into a lady’s kitchen.
On a tiny table were sprigs of Rosemary and other bits and bobs, and in what might have been her tiny sitting room, were laid out her art work, embroidery, hand made cards, plus her old clothes and jewellery! It got a ten out of ten for enterprising endeavour from us, and we got a bunch of Rosemary to go with our sausages!
Our next stop was Ballyness Bay, a wider bay, with a long tongue of sand hiding it from the Atlantic, and again there was little more than the ferry port to Tory Island, a craft shop and a café. So as you can imagine we popped into the craft shop – and did a little Christmas shopping! (I think I have come over all unnecessary!) And we of course had a cuppa - (and a free muffin as this was their last trading day of until Easter next year – where did the summer go!)
Once refreshed we joined the long the “Alantic Scenic Drive” (next stop America!) to Rosguill Point.
We had our late lunch by a little bay over looking Rinn Na Fachla before heading off for a much needed walk.
I love wildness of the landscape here, craggy, boggy moorland, with lines of peat dug out and piled ready for collection, and white single storey houses, all higgledy piggeldy dotted everywhere.
The rain clouds moved off and we enjoyed the sun on our backs (and then faces!) as we wandered down the lanes towards Melmore Head. Unforunately it was now gone six o’clock, and we were beginning to run the risk of running out of day light for the homeward journey so we returned to the car without the planned walk along the beach.
Our route took us back over the moors, and as the clouds were lifted today we were able to see a host of higher peaks (including Errigail) in all their glory. – fab!

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