Monday 11th February – day 107
What a perfect day, the sky is a brilliant clear blue, and we are of to sample some of the truly delightful delights that Suffolk has to offer, starting with Lavenham. This is a picture perfect town even without the sunshine, but in the golden February light the colours of these old Tudor houses just glowed,
The drive between villages was through soft sleepy rolling countryside, and each town or village announced itself with an individually styled town sign which characterised some of its significant history. With each mile Chris seemed to grow fonder of his surroundings, he and his camera are having a very busy day!
Leaving Lavenham we drove on to Long Melford, which had a long broad high street, not unlike
The clarity of the light and the stillness in the air, made this quiet dreamy little place another joy to discover, but onward to Clare.
By now dusk was approaching and time for tea! We found a lovely little deli/café that served a good fruit cake according to Chris. After refreshment we wandered round the streets, another charming town but I am running out of superlatives now!! The
Tuesday 12th February - day 108
Another glorious day, Suffolk is determined to show itself at its early spring best! We are off to do the walk round Flatford Mill, but stop first to take in
The house, called Willy Lotts House, once lived in by the man of the same name surprisingly, is little altered since the painting was done.
To get to Flatford Mill we had to walk
Light was fading as we reached the car, so the final bit of the planned day, to visit Dedham was as ever done in the gathering gloom, it was still very pretty but we did not stop, eager to be home for our pasta bake!!!
Wednesday 13th February – day 109
A promising start but the sunshine left us while we were at Sutton Hoo, which was our first stop to see this distinguished Anglo Saxon Burial Ground, we were gratified to be told this was distinguished as when viewed it did look like a series of small grassed hillocks - that were not that impressive. However the visitor centre, run by National Trust, offered its usual high standard with a good display and short film!
We left Sutton now in a much cooler temperature with grey skies overhead, and went on to Shingle Street, which was as you might expect indeed shingle - all the way to the sea shore - with only a row of rather desolate looking houses and a Martello Tower at the end . We took a walk along the shingle shoreline and watched a rather sluggish brown/grey sea break onto the beach. By this time we also had a mist dropping on to us making the whole experience a just a little eerie. By now the days light was starting to fade but we ploughed on to Orford to have a look at the quay and the castle. The quay was very open and had a feeling of yester year, but it was a little too cold now to linger, so we drove back into the town and walked to the castle (closed of course) but as we walked round close to the base of the keep we had fun trying to work out where the outer walls and entrances would have stood! We took a final stroll round town then home for supper.
Thursday 14th February – day 110
Well we have lost the glorious bright days, for now at least! But never put off, picnic packed route clarified and we are off for a walk from Aldeburgh to Thorpeness and back (not so impressive as it may sound – they are only about 3 miles apart!!) But we detour first to Snape Maltings
After a good look around we drove on to Aldeburgh, spotted the fish and chip shop that had been recommended to us and where we would be purchasing our supper later (yippee!), and parked up along the sea front by the Reaches. All layers on for this bracing walk!! There does not appear to be any sand in Suffolk, but lots of little flint pebbles, not the easiest surface to walk on, and we were soon seeking out the path! We never really felt alone on what appears to be a very popular walk, and there were a few of us arriving a little later at Thorpeness. We were the last of course because we had to stop to examine this rather beautiful steel sculpture of a group of scallop shells.
On then to Thorpeness, this is indeed a strange little place; in part it looks like a screen set for an old Ealing film. The smaller roads are unmade, the village shop is closed until March, and the shop/café where we found a refreshing cuppa was the stuff of childhood seaside holiday memories. Just when we were beginning to acclimatise we spotted a house in the clouds, well not quite, but that is what it is called, as there are 6 floors set in a black painted stack on top of which sits a red painted wooden house complete with bay windows…. And it is available for rent!! To
Friday 15th February – day 111
We had a cloudy start, but it soon cleared up as we journeyed to Southwold, for a day of walking around the marshes. We were delayed by a stop at yet another surreal Suffolk experience. We were on the search for lovely bread (for lunch and beyond!) so stopped at Emmetts a very smart deli in Peasenhall. It had once been famous for selling black ham to the queen Mother, but since her demise the royal stamp had lapsed. We did not find bread, but the cornucopia of fine provender mostly from Spain, from unwaxed lemons to every conceivable olive delicacy; from truckles of cheddar from Mull, to blocks of chocolate; from cured meats to organic veg, we were in dribbling heaven. We left lighter in pocket (again) and probably soon to be – tighter in the jean!!!
But still we needed bread, and found it in another delicious deli in Southwold called the Black Olive. It has not gone unnoticed that Suffolk has a plethora of very stylish, high quality (and expensive) food retailers, and we cannot find a Tescos ANYWHERE (hurray) and we are finding it quite impossible to live on the shoe string as temptation is everywhere, and no less than where we lunched. We had booked in for a fish fest at a little place called the Sole Bay Fish Company. We were supposed to have allowed some time for a bracing walk along the river, towards Dunwich, but instead stopped for a small Adnams at the Harbour Inn so we walked the length of the river bank enjoying the bustle and business of the boat yards, and the buffeting of the sharp wind in our faces. We walked for an hour or more then returned with great anticipation to the Fish Company.
There were two themes on the menu, hot fish or cold fish. Anything else that you might want with the fish you could bring yourself, salad, wine, or bread, (have you made the connection!)
The hot fish included Sea Bass, Dover Sole, Skate, and Cod from their own nets, cooked in their own kitchen, and the cold fish were a selection of choices of fruits of the sea from Crevettes to Whelks, Crab to smoked Salmon.
The sun was a golden glow in the late afternoon sky by the time we left. Just time to walk the length of the
Saturday 16th February – day 112
Lazy start today, with most of the afternoon spent hunting birthday presents at Bury St Edmunds, but we did have
Sunday 17th February – day 113
Every now and again, even amidst our glorious tour, there is a golden day, and today was such a day! The weather remains with us, crisp, clear and bright, frost making the earth hard, sun making the bear trees shine, the mood is light, and all around is easy. We had little planned other than a trip to Snape Maltings to walk the reed beds, and purchase a souvenir of our time in East Anglia. We start the day well, with a brunch of black bacon sarnies. The bacon had been bought from our trip to Peasenhall, and the streaky bacon, (favoured by the Queen Mother!!) is
We spent an indulgent half hour choosing our souvenir in the Maltings Gallery then spent another indulgent half hour in the café (bet you didn’t expect that!!) before walking out into the golden afternoon light to explore the reed beds and marshes.
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