Sunday, 4 November 2007

Week 3: Mon 30th Oct to Sun 4th Nov

Hello all, and welcome to week 3 of "Mints on tour." We moved down to a small site between Perranporth and Newquay on Thursday, and keep expecting to spot Andy Pennell on one of the surfers paradise beaches but no luck yet, however the story so far.........




Monday 29th October – Day 16

Admin beckoned again today, as we still had to settle on our travel plans for the next few weeks, so after much gazing at the website/Directory and several phone calls later we have secured our route until Dec 10th, hurray!
Chris had to spend some time on flat administration, and our only highlight of the day was a trip to Morrisons to get new supplies after Tim’s visit!

Tuesday 30th October – Day 17

Waking to glorious sunshine, we made the easy decision to make a return trip to Hartland to walk more of the path; Picnic at the ready we set off from the Radome, (previously a WW2 military site, now an Air Traffic control radar tower) just before Hartland Point, and walked round the headland.












The scenery was breathtaking, the air was clear, and the sun on our faces was as warm as any June summers day with a light breeze just to keep the heat off.

It was hard not to stop at every view point to take in more of the contorted stone strata, impressive ribs and pinnacles’ covering much of the beach, the sea was much calmer and gentler today, giving us chance to study rock rather than wave.






We picnicked high above Damehole Point, near Hartland Quay and watched a couple of merlins hover and dive; Chris named them Sharon and Tracy as they looked like a couple of game birds, just as we had named them we were visited by another pair of game ol’ birds recceing a path for their lady ramblers group, we vacated the bench for them and moved on. Unfortunately we had to leave the coastal path soon after as we had planned another circular route to avoid finding public transport, (though I think it is more efficient round here) We were hoping for a detour through Hartland Abbey but it looked very closed and unwelcoming so we moved on, back to the car through high sided cycle paths which were miserable in every sense, soggy under foot, and too high to view anything!! Finished pleasantly enough with a flask of tea and a danish, drunk watching the sky turn red and sun sinking into the sea.

Wednesday 31st October – Day 18

A mizzling sort of a day today, lots of mist and a fine rain, (oh well can’t have it sunny all the time). So we shelved our planned walk and decided to go and view our next camp site near Perranporth, the route was good so we hopefully will not encounter any hazards.
This done we went on to see Newquay, much as we remembered it, though there was an abundance of surfing paraphernalia, and subsequently a much more youthful or energetic vibe, which we felt rather too much of in the Central Inn (do we need to say more!)
On then quickly to Padstow or should it be Steinstow now, with a “Stein” based shop/café/bistro/restaurant/deli/fish and chip shop/gift shop and cookery school all baring that name, it is no wonder he is “popular” locally! However it has to be said that the retail and restaurants all around the rest of town had been lifted to an altogether higher standard, giving the town centre a much more dignified and elegant air than remembered.
We finished our tour of Padstow as evening drew in, and decided to take in our first Cornish Cream Tea at the lovely For’c’sle. We managed just one scone each but it was enough to remove any desire for further sustainance until breakfast!
So impressed are we with little Padstow that we agreed that we will definitely be returning.

Thursday 1st November – day 19

Spent the day either preparing to move, moving or resettling having moved! We left Cozy Cats at 13.30, had an easy journey and arrived at Little Treamble Farm, Goonhaven (just outside Perranporth) soon after 15.00. The set up was easier as we begin to establish our routines, and it only took 30 mins to set up the 5min easy porch! An improvement of 15 minutes!
Our reward was a return trip to Padstow to join several others in attending the cinemas final showing, as it now closes until Christmas due to lack of local support! We watched “Atonement” an absorbing but frustrating film as it co-starred a 13 year old girl who DEFINITELY needed a slap!!
The film started at 8pm and there was much discussion in the caravan about the joys arriving early for a stroll or beer (or both) before the show, and it still remains a mystery just where that spare 30 minutes went as we left skid marks on the roads leading into Padstow, arriving breathless, just after 8pm…. Now that will be a surprise to a few of our readers, I’m sure!





Friday 2nd November – day 20

Dull day in every way, jobs to be done, one of which included a trip into Newquay as evening fell, so managed a stroll along the long wide sands until concern that the tide might block our exit forced a turn around, not before we noticed an amazing house built quite literally on a 50 mtrs high island just big enough for a single house, there was a bridge – not unlike Clifton Suspension Bridge, connecting it to the main land, no risk of flooding there, but I did wonder what they might do in high winds!

Saturday 3rd November – day 21

A golden day, from beginning to end, started well as we actually got up early to catch a bus from Polzeath to go to Port Isaac so that we could walk back from there along the coastal path. Surprisingly we realised that we would not make it in time to catch the 9.45am bus so we took a detour to visit Trebetherick, and St Enodocs Church.


It is a lovely little 9th century church where, we discovered, John Betjeman was buried, however we nearly missed it as the tomb stone was rather insignificant, for a man of his literary standing! The other interesting note is that the church also has a very short and twisted spire, much like the shape of a witch’s hat.

We had 2 hours to wait for the next bus, so on leaving the church, walked back along the path, over a golf course and on down to the beach.

We returned to the car then on to Polzeath for a coffee (took a moment to think of Alison Withers and her team at the Tubestation – looked fab). It was only as we ordered our drinks at the beach front café that we noticed that it was now just 10 mins to the next bus, so Chris dashed back to the car to collect the rucksacks. We caught the bus only because I was making a return journey to deposit the extra coat that Chris had brought over, and was able to flag the bus as it came round the bend (still holding said article) and hail Chris who came hurtling from the café, holding a the rucksacks and a smoothie that the kind waitress had just transferred to a plastic cup for me! We had reached Port Isaac before either of us had dried our eyes from the laughter.
We were just beginning to wonder why the bus was hurtling along the roads to Port Isaac at an unprecedented rate, and when we found that the bus driver had a bag of pasties, still warm, to be delivered to his house, on route.

As we were getting off, our helpful bus driver not only gave us directions to the coastal path, he also told us of the free bonfire on the beach at Port Gaverne being held that evening.
Having left the delightful, windy and narrow picturesque Port Isaac, and an even lovelier potter/artist’s gallery, the walk today, although taken along even more fabulous cliff paths and headlands was not the high spot; apart from the MANY flights of steps that assist the walker getting up and down the steep gullies (Chris counted 145 in one flight!).
We were somewhat disconsolate to find that having climbed for 2 ½ hours a sign at lovely

Port Quin, showed that we had only travelled 3 miles (sigh!)


We rounded Rumps Head and came back along the path into Polzeath beach, my hot feet were drawn to the gently lapping waves on this pretty, wide shore (very popular with surfers) so off came the boots and down to the water I went, wonderful whilst in the water but the walk back up the ½ mile beach was pain itself as the cold entered my tired crampy digits – big time; I was not the only one suffering, I think Chris’s hips had had enough of the steps, as I have never seen him move so gingerly back from the loos!
The time was now 6pm we had some hot tea from our flask, and headed off to Port Gaverne to join the hundreds who had also heard that there was a good firework display.
It was a magical evening, as we walked down a single track 1:4 road that overlooked this typical Cornish bay, cliffs flanking the narrow inlet which opened into an oval shaped beach, rather like an amphitheatre as Chris pointed out.
The huge bonfire had been built in the middle of the beach, and the evening started with a ceremonial adding of 4 guys made by local children to the top of the bonfire, and an almost choreographed lighting, its heat was soon felt by all!
As the bonfire settled we were treated to a 30 minute spectacle of light and sound and almost as if planned the huge rockets burst into life just over the inlet and momentarily lit up the sea – pure magic.
When we thought the day could not possible be improved upon, we went in search of supper, not finding a pub that did “something in the basket” we went back to the cafe where we had coffeed in Polzeath earlier, only to find that it had morphed into a fab fish restaurant, and we managed to get the last “table for two” and were the two lucky beggars that had crab, scallops and sea bass to finish the perfect day!

Sunday 4th November – day 22

Went inland today to see “Trerice”, a National Trust property just beyond Quintrell Downs. Lovely gentle afternoon of pottering round house and gardens, and the sight of the autumn leaves brought home just how bleak and stripped the trees are on the coast, as if the wind has blown them straight into winter (assuming that they “leaved” this year).
This elegant and dignified Tudor house was taken over by the NT in the 50’s having been purchased from Cornwall County Council, who in turn, had been sold it by the last owner in the early 1900s in favour of his principle home further south.



House and gardens had been lovingly restored, and after a good wander we took tea (and cake) in the Great Barn, which sustained us enough to then visit the lawn mower museum, and down memory lane, though only one (the female of the party) had childhood memories of helping father mow the lawn!

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