Monday, 17 November 2008

Week 55 - 27th October to 2nd November

Monday 27th - day 365

We headed back into Liverpool today for a second visit.
Our first stop was Port Sunlight a fascinating museum, which gave real insight into the village that the Lever Magnate had built to house his factory workers in a clean, healthy and progressive environment.
We walked round the streets to explore the work of the four Architects who were employed to design practical and lovely houses.
We spent a long time there we were so impressed, before we drove back through the tunnel to visit the cathedrals. Our first stop was the Catholic cathedral. It was absolutely fabulous, and quite different, as it was round with lots of deeply coloured glass panels, making the lights and shades very atmospheric. The central altar was very simple with a large steel sculpture of a crown above it, and the whole effect was evocative and soul stirring.
From there we walked on to the C of E Cathedral, past a set of concrete sculptures called “Case Histories”, which were several piles of suitcases of famous Liverpudlian heroes.
The C of E building was quite different, but also very atmospheric. We had a good wander round the warm red stoned ornate neo-gothic halls, and there was a quiet reflective corner that held my attention for quite a while.
We had to move the car, if we were not to get a ticket, before we could go and visit the Albert Docks and the Liver Buildings.
Unfortunately it was going home time and there was total grid lock, and when we finally got to the docks we found that it was £4 per hour to park, so there was nothing for it but to get back in the car and head for home, deciding to revisit another day!!

Tuesday 28th - day 366

We moved today, and just to make it fun, it rained absolutely all night, so that we woke up in the middle of a huge puddle. Then as if that was not fun enough it started to snow, and continued to snow until the tops were quite white.
Other than that excitement we had an easy journey to Llandudno Junction. On the final leg of the journey we had a little wobble as we followed a complicated set of instructions along a narrow winding road that did not look too helpful, if in fact we were going in the wrong direction!! But a very helpful fellow camper arrived just as we doing a final map check, to guide us down the last narrow and quite steep hill, Hallelujah! We were also a little concerned that we would be parked in the middle of a field/pond but we were met by the farmer who suggested that we park on the hard standing just outside the field, and just by the toilet (much appreciated) so I think that we will be OK for the next week, although we have no phone signal/radio/internet and little TV – should be a quiet week!

Wednesday 29th - day 367

We had to attend to the laundry this morning, so going out to play was delayed until we had hung our clean cloths up to dry, not something that we could do outside as the rain is unceasing!
But after lunch we went out to visit Colwyn Bay. Mostly it was a bit disappointing and faded, but we parked up by the promenade and walked a way down the sea front. The temperature has plummeted, and it is hard to think that we were walking into Chester in our Tee shirts just a few days ago!
We walked round the front to Llandrillo-yn-Rhos, the next village, and just as we were about to make our return we came across what we thought was a model church, but on closer inspection (and reading the bill board!) we discovered that it was built by St Trillo, centuries ago as a retreat, seats six, and communion is still held there once a month!
Before returning to the splendid isolation of Glan Conwy we went for a couple of pints and an internet session at a local hostelry. Once complete we returned to the caravan for supper and a showing of Swordfish as there was no TV!

Thursday 30th - day 368

We are in the grip of winter, with temperatures this morning that called for the wearing of fleeces, anoraks and gloves!
So, fully equipped for the arctic we set out to visit the very lovely Conwy.
It is just down the road from Llandudno Junction, so we didn’t have far to go. It isn’t a large town, but it does have three bridges, one for the trains, one for the cars and one for the pedestrians – which was the smartest as it was a suspension bridge designed by Thomas Telford, and had a toll house at the end. Now owned by…. joy of joys… the National Truss, so of course we stopped to look in.
We learned from the very helpful steward that the house went with job of toll collector. The job went to auction every year or so, and workers would bid for the right to take the position. The successful candidate would move into the house and then work 24 hours a day, seven days a week to collect the various tolls. We had to presume that they stayed in position long enough to recoup what they had paid for the business and made enough profit to exit before they expired from the endless days labour. We also learned that the largest family to live in this three roomed house had 4 children (and no bathroom of course).
After our trip round the toll house we went back over the suspension bridge to go round the castle built by Edward 1 in 1280(ish). Mostly it was made up of lots of turrets, and an excellent rampart walk that was in tact so that we could walk all the way round the castle, enjoying panoramic views and freezing temperatures! So afterwards we went for a warming cuppa and Barabrith.
Once we could feel our fingers again we went on to Aberconwy House, the oldest house in Wales, also owned by the NT, for a look at a 14th century house that had for a while been a hotel. We met a very interesting chap whilst there who was a font of knowledge about word origins, and here we learned that food left over from the meal was kept in a dole cupboard and handed out from there to the poor, who came - claiming the dole! Also we learned that before tables were secured they were called boards that were loose and could be turned. There was always a “day to day” side and a best side, used when entertaining, and the table would be turned for guests – hence the phrase “turning the tables”, and finally we learned that the children stood to table, the women sat on a bench on the other side, and the man sat at the head of the table on a chair, hence the phrase – “Chairman of the Board”!
This little town still had more delights to offer, so we took a walk through the lovely town centre and once we had found the entrance, we walked along the town walls round to the harbour, with again fabulous panoramic views. Our final leg of the tour took us past the smallest house in Wales, only about 3m wide, but it was closed by the time we were passing by, as well as this lovely stature of mussels.
Finally we went and parked up by the river (with no view!) to do the computing, whilst having a cuppa (from our own picnic box), but the computer battery had run down, so we sat in the dark, drinking our tea, before heading back for supper – and some TV, as the TV hero has managed (using a little insulation tape) to boost the reception enough for it to be watchable!

Friday 31st - day 369

We visited Angelsey today, but the weather was not warm enough to make an early start (even for us). But once off we drove through Bangor, but didn’t stop as we wanted to get over to Anglelsey. So it was over another of Telford’s suspension bridges, which took us over the Menai Straits.
Our first stop was at Beaumaris, a lovely Georgian sea side resort, that was also the main port for the island before the bridge was built, but retains its harbour, a pier, (which was full of young crab fishers and their fathers!!) apparently the finest unfinished castle in Wales, courtesy of King Edward 1, and fine views across to the Great Orme and Snowdonia. It was still very cold, but quite sunny so we ventured out for a walk.
After a spot of picnic lunch we went on to Red Wharf Bay, a bay that I had crossed as a child, with the family, one holiday. Unfortunately we were still a way out, walking on the wide bay when the channels started to fill as the tide turned. Father (hero of the hour!) had to carry two small girls plus one anxious wife across muddy sand and increasingly wider channels to safety – and I can’t remember any of it!
We chose to walk along the shore line of this wide bay that was still filled with deceptive channels that would soon, for us also, be too wide to cross easily as the tide came in. It has to be said that it was a bracing walk, but we shared the sands with a few fellow masochists, and some birds that were busy foraging. We spotted some interesting faces along the way, including an Eigret, and some Widgeons.
The weather conditions were also interesting as it was very windy for most of the walk, and for a while there was a sleet storm which really stung our faces, and we were glad to get back in the car.
It was going dark by the time we left, so we just had time to drive up to Moelfre to walk again in the driving and painful sleet, along the path for a short way to see the statue of the fisherman at the Heritage Centre.
Finally, completely cold and wet, we went for a warming pint and computing session in the local hostelry before making the journey home.

Saturday 1st - day 370

Well, we didn’t quite achieve what we had planned today, but we still had fun, strangely! We had hoped to take the tram up to Great Orme Head, and walk back round the headland back to Llandudno. The weather was looking good, and we were ready for some sun on our faces, but unfortunately whilst we attending to a bit of necessary business in town, we found a craft (and hobby) shop. We have decided to try and seriously cut Christmas costs this year, and as we have a folder full of fab photos, we thought that it would be a good idea to make our own Christmas cards; and in the craft shop were all the things that we needed to create the finished article, great, the only problem was that we have spent almost twice as much as we would have done!!! We had to spend the next hour convincing ourselves that we would need to use the guillotine many times beyond Christmas- lets hope so.
Anyway we spent some much time “attending to business” that the sun was sinking behind the hills when we had finished, and we needed food, so we found a warm spot for Tiffin and tried to decide whether we would go to one of the bonfire parties on offer. The tea obviously revived us, because we had a bright idea. We decided to drive to the summit of the now dark Great Orme, and watch the firework displays from our lofty vantage point. We waited 45 minutes for the first display to get started (it was also the display that we had planned to drive to). Over ten minutes we spotted a goodly number of Roman Candles, but little else that might light up the sky, but we were now rather cold, even in the car, so we decided to return to our cosy warm caravan, and a plate of stew and dumplings!

Sunday 2nd - day 371

We left the coast today for the first of a few days exploring Snowdonia. The weather was a lot warmer and sunnier today, meaning that we were able to really get out and stretch our legs, for the first time in a while it feels like. From Llanrwst we took a windy single track road through the heart of the Gwydyr Forest which was full of beeches and larches that glowed golden in the autumn sunlight.
We needed a map to help us get round safely, so we drove on into Betws-y-Coed to make our purchase, but ended up stopping there, and enjoying a rather strenuous walk by the river up to the magnificent Swallow Falls, then on into the forest, before returning back to the village.
Betws-y-Coed really reminded us of a cross between Grasmere and Skelwith Bridge, with the slate houses, shops and bridges, the tumbling waterfall and rocky outcrops directing the flow of the clear waters through the woodland. By the time we returned to the village, the lights were coming on, giving the place a very cheery and welcoming glow. We had packed a pot of tea which we drank in the dark again, but this time we were able to phone the family before we returned to splendid isolation!

Sunday, 26 October 2008

Week 54 - 20th to 26th October

Monday 20th - day 358

Everyone has returned to their own routines, so only those fortunate enough to still be on holiday are left to play. We spent the morning catching up with domestics, but in the afternoon we loaded the bath chairs and their occupants into the land Rover and set off for Bolton Abbey. After all the rain, the river was a torrent of churning and foaming waters, with currents and under currents to stir the imagination.
We walked up to the Strid, and where there had been rocky ledges in the spring now there was only a wide and wild flow as the water reached higher than any of the channel.
The walk had a lovely autumnal feel to it as the beeches are turning golden and the path was strewn with colourful leaves. It was so good to be out in the fresh air again, and as a treat (and a thank you) we finished the afternoon with a little Tiffin in the very stylish Devonshire Arms, (reminded me of the Old Bell) just the ticket!!!

Tuesday 21st - day 359

No play today, as we needed to attend to the small detail of where we are heading tomorrow, but by tea time we had sorted out our route and timetable for the final leg of our tour, as well as spending a happy hour bargain hunting in Sainsbury’s!

Wednesday 22nd - day 360

We are leaving Clitheroe after a really lovely time of catching up with the family. We are also leaving in lovely weather which is a bonus!
After an easy drive down the motorway we arrived at our next docking station, a caravan site situated right by (and with access to) the Shropshire Union Canal and is just a 3 mile walk down the tow path to Chester.
Once we had settled in we took the tow path towards town passing a plethora of large houses, little round bridges and colourful narrow boats (some of which were occupied.) We also passed the Cheshire Cat public house. It looked so inviting that after walking a little further, we returned for an aperitif, before heading back for supper.

Thursday 23rd - day 361

Wall to wall rain again today, such a shame after the lovely day yesterday, so just as well that we are going into Manchester so that I can get my hair cut. Hannah had recommended the Toni and Guy training academy, so I was in for an economical long sit! The young girl (also called Hannah) was very good and I left with hair in pretty good shape and quite a lot shorter – so that will keep me going for a while!
In the meantime DB took his camera for an outing and found the cathedral and Barton’s Arcade, an elegant Victorian shopping arcade that looked like it was being developed. Once refreshed from the 2hour sit he showed me his finds, and we continued to wander round the buzzing metropolis until we were fed up of being wet and returned to the car, and made for home as I think that we will be back on Saturday to meet up with Hannah, Mustafa and Matthew! Well that will be a trip to Wagamamas then!!

Friday 24th - day 362

We have been back in the sunshine again today, so much so that I took swan vesta man home with me!!
As the caravan park has access to the Shropshire Union tow path we decided to walk along by the canal into Chester. It was just lovely to be out in the sunshine, with the sound of narrow boats chugging past us, and the occasional winding of the lock keys.
What we did also notice though was that most people who passed us on the path did not stop to say hello, and after the friendliness of the folk in Ireland, it was very noticeable.
It took an hour to walk into town, and as we were deciding whether to turn left or right – having arrived in Chester’s centre, we did meet a very friendly man who was fresh out of the pub! He happily engaged us in conversation about the merits of Chester and particularly its stone work, until he had shown us the front door of the cathedral.
We stayed there a rather long time as we had given us an excellent audio tour which automatically gave the info on where ever we were standing, so we stopped and looked at everything!
We were hungry by the time we had finished so we stopped for our picnic lunch in the gardens, before we set off to walk round town and the walls.
We enjoyed the old two tier shopping gallery, and as we walked along the top row we found a nice little deli (that we were informed by the proud owner had opened earlier this year) so we stopped for a foot soother.
Once refreshed we headed back to the tow path and walked back to the camp site along the canal side, but not in time for the Archers!

Saturday 25th - day 363

We have had wall to wall rain again, but it did not get in the way for us as much as it the 2,500 marathon fell runners that got stranded in dangerous weather conditions in Borrowdale when the organisers failed to stop the race despite advice from everyone else it would seem.
Our first stop was to Quarry Bank Mill, a fantastic working example of one of the north’s leading cotton mills. It is of course now owned and managed by the wonderful National Truss, so is superbly presented, with guides in costume, showing how to spin and weave, and how to work the machinery. It was a real trip down memory lane, especially seeing the clogs and bobbins that could still be seen around the place when I was little.
As well as the mill we were taken on a tour around the apprentice house, which housed up to 90 children over 9 whose other choice of accommodation was likely to be the work house. Although conditions were bleak, and the working day long (they were in the mill by 6am, and did not leave until 6pm, when they returned to the house to either study or do chores) the guide was keen to point out that they were well looked after, as they were well fed, and had beds to sleep in!
It was a fantastic place and I suspect that we may try and return, but for today we were continuing into Manchester to meet up with Hannah and Mustafa. We did not get to meet Matthew as he had to return to London. We were sad not to see Mr Chandelier, but it meant that we had more time to get to know Hannah’s new young man.
We went for the now customary Wagamamas fresh food fest, and on for a pint at the Oyster Barbefore they had to go to work, but it was nice to spend a couple of hours in their company.

Sunday 26th - day 364

We tried to pack too much in today, but of course did not manage to see as much as we had wanted to so it is likely that we are going to try and stay another day!
Into Liverpool
First stop Speke House, timber framed tudor house with a Victorian interior.
It was also owned by the National Truss so we were treated to te usual comforting standard.
It seems that all is well when we enter NT land.
From there drove up to Crosby to see Antony Gormleys Iron Men. Stunning and eerie
Whilst on the beach had a brief but torrential hail storm
Vertical sleet, stung the ears and cheeks, and soaked the cloths arrived back at the car soaking wet and cold but happy
Back in the centre of Liverpool, with hopes of seeing at least the Catholic Cathedral but it had closed so we went to look for Albert Docks, and there was so much to see that we decided that we would just have to make a return trip.
Home through the tunnel

Tuesday, 21 October 2008

Week 53 - 13th to 19th October

Monday 13th - day 351

This is our last day in Ireland, and it was mizzly to start with, but brightened up steadily until it became a glorious afternoon!
We decided to drive over to look at Strangford Lough, stopping first at Killybeagh, a smart little town dominated by a huge gothic style, privately owned castle. The owners had left the gates open so that the plebs could look in, but there was a clear sign instructing us not to step over the threshold!
We then took the back roads along the lough, stopping at a dreamy little bay to eat our lunch, as the tide drifted out and the wading birds drifted in! Full and rested, we looked for somewhere to walk, so drove along to Whiterock, a beautiful wide bay, with a harbour full of boats, a marina, lots of seaweed and a ruined castle. The sunshine gave everything a golden glow, and we parked up to walk along the side of the waters edge.
We stopped just past a lighthouse boat called Ballydorn, and must have been looking inquisitive, because the proud Committee Chairman of the Down Cruising Club came and asked us if we would like to look around. Well, it would have been churlish to refuse!! So we didn’t and got a grand tour of the old craft, which the band of faithful enthusiasts, who had purchased the vessel for £2,000 40 years earlier, had modernised and renovated to accommodate parties and functions. Rather proudly he showed us the Captains quarters, which they had left in place.
We chatted for a while, before continuing our walk along the road, until the path moved away from the water.

Tuesday 14th - day 352

We are heading back to blighty today, with mixed feelings. It has to be said that our last couple of weeks have been bighted by bad weather or financial misery, and whilst we are sad to be leaving this lovely island, we are looking forward to being back on the mainland where we can access information and take action more easily!
We had an easy if wet journey up the motorway to the ferry port, then an easy (if wet) crossing!! We decided to buy ourselves a hot lunch as we would be on the road for the rest of the day, and were each treated to a really tasty (and inexpensive) steak and kidney pie, tick-VG to Stenaline!
We were back on the road by 2pm, and we drove all the way to Kendal in miserable rain, and by the time we came to park the caravan, the fields had been replaced by lakes, and we looked a very sorry sight as we tried to manoeuvre into a (hoped for) parking quagmire/space when Chris could not see my waving and gesticulating in the dark and rainy conditions,
We were soaking wet, and looked a very sorry sight, by the time we had finished! So it was straight on to the flat for a hot bath, and a curl up on the sofa, I am beginning to look forward to living in the flat.

Wednesday 15th - day 353

We are only at the flat for three days, so there will be no time for play, as we need to do the usual repairs and maintenance. We had a bit of a chaotic start, as we were visited by the Surveyor and the Solicitor at the same time, (preparing for the Management Group) and just when the flat was looking like an overheated Chinese laundry, but in a muddily sort of a way we made reasonable progress!
In the afternoon we scooted down to Kendal to do some shopping, and get some provisions, and were back in time (before it started to rain again!)to give the flower bed a good old weeding, as it was looking very overgrown. We are beginning to love the growing feelings of familiarity.

Thursday 16th - day 354

I don’t think that we left the flat today it was all work, work, work.
But there was a thrilling moment when we saw out of the sitting room window a great theatrical display of contrasts as the rain fell on one side of the fells and there was a watery sunshine on the other, giving glorious displays of light and shadow as the mist rolled across the fell sides. We stopped and watched it from our sitting room for a while. A joy which I am sure will be repeated often in a few weeks!

Friday 17th - day 355

After another day of repairing and cleaning we were ready to depart for Clitheroe, after a lovely catch up and cup of tea with Richard and Sue East, who are staying for the week at the flat.
We had a tricky start to the journey as one of the wheels had got jammed, and would not turn, making it very difficult to pull the caravan out of the mud, but we did get moving after a few forward and reverse manoeuvres!
Grandpa and Tim were ready to escort us to the farm in West Bradford where the caravan was going to spend the five days that we are with the family, and Tim was very helpful in assisting us park up!
It was good to see him, and we all had another lovely catch up after supper!

Saturday 18th - day 356

We had a really lazy day today. As Hannah joined us at coffee time, and having picked her up, we all went to the Emporium to meet Al for coffee (and Nachos for Tim!) After a leisurely linger over coffee and a mooch round the gift shop we returned to the Orchard for lunch at the wrinks.
We never left the comfort of the settees all afternoon, hardly an appetite inducing activity, but as soon as Vic was home from work, we all headed up to the Calf’s Head for a Worston Whale (enormous fish and chips)
We waddled back to Al and Vic’s for drinks, and at the end of the evening my walking pal and I really enjoyed the walk back to the wrinks in the rain, loving the fresh air and exercise, even if wet!

Sunday 19th - day 357

We have enjoyed another lazy day of eating ad talking, though some of us were virtuous enough to get up and go to church – but not all of us!!
After church, we all trooped up to Al and Vic’s for a little sherry and a lot of excellent fish pie!
It took some persuading to get the workers to return to their computers to prepare for the working week, whilst those on holiday donned the marigolds! After a while though we had all returned to the comfy sofa!
Once again we needed the walk back to the wrinks to find some comfort from all the eating of the weekend!!

Week 52 - 6th to 12th October

Monday 6th - day 344

After several days of neglecting the diary, there was nothing for it but to catch up this morning before we went out for the afternoon, which was a bit of pain as the weather is lovely again, but once the necessary job was done, we were free to move off!
Alas the weather deteriorated as we set out, but we did manage to stay dry as we enjoyed a wander round Ballintober the “Abbey that wouldn’t die”!
It was built in 1216, and despite a turbulent history it was still receiving worshippers to Mass in the mid 1900’s, although there was no roof and the walls were at risk!
It was restored in the 1960’s and was quite magnificent in all its simple glory. It would appear that the two latest incumbents were responsible for its renaissance, and as well as an atmosphere of peace inside the Abbey (and no mention of how much it’s upkeep cost – Hallelujah) there was a stunning garden with a Rosary Walk, where you could enter the stable and cousin Elizabeths house, the crucifixion site and the empty tomb, as well as the 12 stations of the Cross laid out in modern stone work. The inscriptions were simple and thought provoking, and we lingered a long time there – just as well with what we were to learn later.
We returned home over the moors via Aghagower. We were looking forward to visiting the village that got a cheery mention in the DVD running in the Abbeys visitors room, but what we had not anticipated was the panoramic view that opened up to us as we rounded the last summit. It was a breath taking sweep of Party Mountains to our left, Clew Bay and Croagh Patrick in front of us, and the Nephin Beg Range to our right. Wow, and the clouds were just wisping round the tops as we stopped (though it did rain heavily again soon after!)
Aghagower was a village of cemeteries – the dead centre of Mayo as the resident comedian put it, but there were obvious historic links to St Patrick and the arrival of Christianity in Ad 400, so we took a walk round.
We were home in time to listen to the 7 o’clock news, and the crushing of all our hopes.
The savings that we had accrued and were making our trip possible were being housed in an Icelandic bank (safe and respected we were advised during our research!!) and we were informed that the banks had ceased trading – which means that we have no access to our savings, and in fact they may be lost for ever. I am not sure which of us felt more sick, but it was a deep body blow, and effectively brings our holiday to an end, as we cannot fund it now, and will have to look for work, sooner rather than later (gone in a moment are all dreams of part time work and greater freedom!)
It was hard to recover, but we had already bought tickets to hear John Spillane from Cork, so in the light of inpending poverty we felt it too wasteful to let the tickets go, and we did hope that he might distract us. Unfortunately although he was very entertaining he did not! And we were ready to leave the noise and bustle just as soon as we could.
Any thoughts of sleep were lost in a night of tossing and turning, and we can only pray for brighter news to emerge at some point.

Tuesday 7th - day 345

It rained all night, which robbed the last hopes of rest, and the morning was not much brighter. We tried to contact Icesave for more information but reached an ansaphone apologising for inconvenience caused but the bank was not receiving deposits or making withdrawals!!! Oh, and we would find the latest news on the web site as soon as they had any!
So we sit tight and wait, like thousands of others. It is now a time to be thankful for all that we do have, and count our very many blessings, rather than dwell on the difficulties!
Needless to say, there was not much of an appetite for going out and about today so we busied ourselves with the stuff of life and tried to stay calm!! (well one of us!!)
By mid afternoon the desire to feel the wind on our faces stirred us into action, and we drove down to Lough Mask, with the hope of finding a path to walk by the waters edge. We were not lucky in that respect, but we did catch a news flash that indicated that it looked like the Icelandic banks were about to go into liquidation, and if they did British savers would be allowed to claim compensation up to £50,000 (from various quarters!!). For us that is good news as we have less than that amount in the bank, but for those serious savers it would have been a body blow!
So despite the lack of a lovely pathway, we took a determined and warily cheerful stride out to blow the cobwebs away.
We still have to wait for the announcement regarding liquidation and compensation process, and there will be no certainties until we see (at least some of) our savings returned back to us, but at least there is more of a hopeful atmosphere than was 24 hours ago!

Wednesday 8th - day 346

Today we were blessed with sunshine again, that and the latest good news from the Chancellor regarding our savings with Icesave meant that we enjoyed a really happy day!We had planned to drive over to Achill Island, but stopped first at Newport, which had looked worthy of closer inspection on a previous visit, but alas it did not really warrant the time we spent there, though I did enjoy watching the tide coming in, up the river which was flowing in the opposite direction, as DB went in search of the perfect photo opportunity!
We continued on to Achill an island connected to the mainland by a small bridge. We had been told that it was lovely, but it was much more than that. As we drove round its weaving contures, we kept coming across another beautifully sweeping sandy beach that was the playground for a cluster of charming little whitewashed cottages. There were two real high spots of the day though. The first was when we came across Dooega. We had to back track a little up a steep and narrow road up the mountain side to reach a viewing point, but it was so worth it. As we got out of the car we read a small inscription that read “All the people will come and worship before you oh Lord, they will bring glory to your Name” Ps86v9 and as we looked up, we knew exactly what the inscriber was getting at. The sky was clear, the sun was high and the wind was lapping up the waters, and you could feel the powers of the wild natural forces and wonder at our creative God. It was a dramatic moment, and we lingered a long time, walking to the edge of the cliffs and taking time to let the place restore the battered edges!
In fact we lingered long enough to have worked up a thirst, so out came the basket, and we enjoyed an alfresco feast, which we had to hold down in the face of a 25 mph wind. Needless to say this caused some wry smiles from fellow visitors- but frankly, were we bovvered!
From Dooega Head we drove round to the end of the island, through lovely Keel, and on to Moytoege Head, where the road came to an end, at another beautiful clean sweep of a sandy bay. The final approach to the beach was taken along a narrow road cut into the hill, with the edge rather too close to an unprotected verge, we were told that it was a bit scary for some, but we carried on regardless just leaned to the right a bit harder!! Our reward was a lovely walk on golden sands!
As usual time was beating us, and it was getting close to dusk and dinner time, so we drove the rest of the way round the island in fading light, but it will remain in one of the top ten attractions I think for a long time, and we left with thoughts of further visits (and easy and quick suppers!)

Thursday 9th - day 347

All attempts to stay upbeat and optimistic today were being drowned by the persistent rain, and deepening crisis in Iceland. We remain comforted by the headlines, but details like how we retrieve our savings are being kept firmly behind a locked website! Still, we have so many blessings to be thankful for, it is best to dwell on them rather than the difficulties, as it is starting to emerge that many councils and charities have invested in Icesave, following the same “sound financial advice” as us, and they must be worried!
So, we continue to wait, and say thank you for all that we do have.
The rain did not shift so by lunch time we decided to go out regardless. This is our last day in Mayo, as tomorrow we depart for Ulster prior to returning to blighty. We will be leaving with mixed feelings. This was a much anticipated leg of our trip, and it seems to have been dogged by bad weather and bad news. The comforting thing is that hopefully when all financial upheaval has settled, and we are back in the saddle, we will be able to plan a return visit!
With all these thoughts whirling through my brain we set off for Ballina, and the Killala harbour.
We stopped first to look in at Foxford Mills, a very reputable Irish woollen mill that had a very posh “lifestyle” shop. In other circumstances we may have purchased, but the purse is tight shut now!
So on we went to find a lovely bit of coastline to enjoy our cuppa, and a stroll. Unfortunately Inshcrone was a bit of a mini Skegness, looking grim in the rain, so we carried on until we found a lonely little pebbly bay that we could enjoy all to ourselves!
It may not be very sophisticated, but I do enjoy these little picnics, looking out over the stormy seas.
For a while the rain fall quietened to a drizzle so we went for a wander and a forage.
The landscape here was a rather unusual mix of stepped rocks and little round pebbles. Mistakenly we thought that the flat rocky ledges would be easier to walk on but after a brief but exciting episode of skittering, and flailing we carefully edged our way back to the pebbles, where we concentrated our efforts on searching out some interesting fossil filled gems!
We returned to the car wet, windswept and happy, and ready for the journey back to warm and dry!
We had not been travelling long before we met a rather soggy looking chap who was madly waving his thumb in the air. Understanding his dampness we stopped, upon which he asked for lift to Castlebar, for himself …… and his bike! Fortunately we could squeeze it in the back of the land rover so with all cargo on board we set off again.
It did not take long for the heady aromas of Vodka to reach our nostrils, and as he lurched and spluttered in the back I did wonder whether to advise Chris to draw his seat up to protect his neck from a possible technicolour yawn! He kept us entertained for most of the journey, and we understood enough of his ramblings to know that he was Latvian, a chef, an alcoholic with criminal tendencies (his admission) and no money. For a while I considered hiding any gold jewellery I could discreetly remove, and as he rustled in his plastic bag I have to admit that I felt a little nervous. However all that he wanted from us was to take him to his old house to pick up his blankets, and then drive him on to his new digs. I have to say that I am glad that they were both in Castlebar. And when he offered us a bed in his new place as a thank you, I chastised myself for my prejudice, and once we had dropped him off we returned to our own warm and dry haven of comfort!

Friday 10th - day 348

Once again we are on the move, leaving lovely Westport, feeling that we have not really been able to make the most of it. Somewhere between the rain and the news of financial meltdown, the joy of being in this lovely corner of Ireland has been diminished unfortunately.
And again it rained through the night, (though looking at the photo of the campsite, we obviously did have some good weather!!) and in fact did not stop until we were sitting down to supper.
So we made the whole journey across the middle of Ireland to Aghalee on the south edge of Lough Neagh, in the rain!
We were on the road for six hours, and Chris’s eyes were on stalks by the time we arrived.
But the CL that we are staying on for the weekend is a lovely little part of an orchard on a farm in the middle of nowhere, and costs £8 per night which is a very welcome change from the 20+ euro per night that we have been paying for the rest of our stay in Eire!

Saturday 11th - day 349

It has been a lovely day, so we decided to stay local, and try not to spend, so opted for fresh air and freedom – which always does the soul good!!
Unforunately we did not get off to a good start though, as the countryside flatter and rather uninspiring, but there was an RSPB nature reserve near by so we drove to Portmore lough in the hope of walking round the small lake and doing a little bird spotting, but recent rain had flooded the pathways so all was closed. Fortunately we met a local man who told us about the joys of Oxford Island, another RSPB site, so we drove round to the shores of Lough Neagh.
Oxford Island was a larger nature reserve, very manicured with a marina, visitors centre, café and laid out paths. It was not really very stimulating but the late afternoon light brought a glow to the autumn colours, and we were able to walk right round the perimeter on woodland paths, checking out these glorious little treasures, and pretending to be out in the country for a couple of hours!
And there was a lovely sunset to finish the day well!
By 7.30pm we were back at the caravan, feeling relaxed – there is nothing like a blast of fresh air and some exercise to settle the spirit!

Sunday 12th - day 350

We have enjoyed another day without rain (yippee), though it was a mix of sunshine and cloud.
The Mourne mountain range had been recommended to us by a couple of folk, so we drove down to check them out. They were indeed a striking mountain range sitting right by the east coast.
We parked up in Silent valley visitor’s centre, (in the centre of the mountains) and picnicked in the car park! Once revived, we walked through the woodland grounds up to the dam, and almost left the madding crowd as we continued to walk the length of the reservoir.
The landscape was very wild, bleak and had a wintery feel, and the hard road made feet sore, but we as always, enjoyed our thrash in the fresh air, and we were regularly entertained by the sight of Irish folk pounding the pavements at speed - taking very seriously their daily thirty minutes of exercise!
We had also packed a picnic supper (of spicy bean soup, so we needed to be outside!!) so that we could make the most of the day, so once back at the car we drove on round to the coast.
It should have been fabulous, but by now the clouds were right down, so we were unable to take photos of the area, but the land that swept down to sea was divided up into small fields (quite like the Peak District) which were separated out by very straight, very level walls made of large round bouldery type stones, it all looked very striking.
We drove and drove to find that perfect view of the sea, but it was dark by the time we reached anywhere that we could park and look out, so in the end we ate our broth looking across at the lights of Newcastle listening to the waves!!
We were back at the caravan in time to listen to a special edition of Moneybox live, to try and find out the latest in the financial maelstrom, and particularly when we might see our savings again!!