Week 38 - 30th June to 6th July

Monday 30th - day 317

We have planned a touring day, after we have replenished the food supplies and petrol. So, jobs done we return to Wigtown to check out the book shops as Chris stocks are getting low!
We spent a while wandering town, stopping at a bookshop/café called “Readinglasses”. We had a lovely cuppa there, drinking from their fine china cups, but found that the ratio of male to female in the shop/café was worryingly small, but then we checked their book shelves, and I’m surprised Chris was allowed in at all!!
We then spent even longer in a book shop reminiscent of Barter Books in Alnwick, as it had several rooms filled floor to ceiling with old books, plus comfy sofas and strange artefacts!
From Wigtown we drove round the peninsular, passing Port William, but stopping at the very lovely Isle of Whithorn, home of St Ninians chapel and a pretty little harbour.
From there we drove up to Garlieston, but didn’t stop as it was now time to go back for tea!

Tuesday 1st - day 318

Well, another day of rain, but we not going to let that spoil the day!!! We are off to visit the Galloway Forests and beyond! It may be true that all locals and sensible folk have stayed in doors, but it was lovely to drive for miles down windy leafy lanes and meet no one! We drove past Glentrool where we had been earlier and went on to explore the little lochs along the way – mostly managed by the Forestry Commission – and the first stop was Kirriereoch (very Gaelic) where we saw just one family trying to pretend it was summer as their two young sons splashed in the river whilst they huddled under fleeces!
We picnicked at beautiful Stinchar Falls, there was a break in the clouds and we planned to go and take our lunch to eat at the tables kindly provided by the FC! But as we reached for the box the heavens opened again so we sat in the warm and dry (if a little smelly now!!)
The largest Loch on our route was the Bradan, further into the forest so we drove on to park closer to the water. At best the scene could be described as bleak, and in the rain it was still more bleak, but we wanted to see what was round the corner so we set off on the path round the Loch, it would have been 8 or 9 miles to walk all the way round, so we went just far enough to see enough Pippits and smell enough of the rain drenched earth, (and by 6pm) we were just wet enough to need to a hot cup of tea, before the taking the journey home. We had two lovely the surprises on the way home though, the first was unexpectedly finding the truly delightful Straiton, a small village with a wide High Street, along which all the low roofed, croft style houses had packed their frontages with colourful annuals and it made such a pretty picture that we had to stop and take one!
The other lovely surprise was that Hannah, who had been avoiding going to get her results for fear of getting a 2:2, finally rang to say she had got a 2:1! HALLELUJAH! What a relief, there will be celebrating in Manchester tonight!!

Wednesday 2nd - day 319

Because of Hannah’s good news I have been commissioned by the family to go and purchase the necessary pressies, so rather than making the long drive over to the Rhinns (where we had planned to go walking) we made a bee line for Castle Douglas, where we made our first lovely purchase, but as we needed something to go with it, so we decided to move on Kikcudbright to continue our search, but not before we stepped into Hazels Antiques! Or should it have been Aunty Wainwrights?! To get into this interesting establishment you had to cut through layers of thick smoke created by the three weather beaten old codgers who sat in the corner, pontificating loudly in their broad Irish brogue. I think that they must, at some time or other, have emptied the entire contents of all the old houses in the area, there was everything from an old mangle to a grandfather clock, and a trouser press for £20 – Chris was tempted!
But back on track and on to Kircudbright. We had not had time to really explore this old fishing port cum Artists capitol of the south west Scotland, and it was lovely to spend a bit of time wandering before we made our second purchase. There was an exhibition of the areas influential artists from the late 1800’s, including Jessie M King, who illustrated books that I can remember from childhood. She and her husband lived in the town (from 1915 until she died in 1949,) along with several other artists.
We noticed that the streets were very colourful as we wandered round, and there were little alleyways along the way, which were full of baskets and troughs full of flowers –all well hydrated – from all the rain!

Thursday 3rd - day 320

We are so glad that we hadn’t planned an early or speedy get away, as we overslept, then just when we thought that we may be catching up, we got caught instead by the neighbours, Chris by the Northern Irish couple and me by the wife of the Cumbrian couple, who did not leave until she had told me all about all of her dogs – plus their names and who had been shown at Crufts – I don’t think that I glazed over, but there were moments, but in the end she and Isabella the Pug went back to their caravan for lunch, and Chris returned, at least he had been given tips on places to see near Belfast!
Finally, and rather sadly we leave this little piece of rural heaven with its cheeky spaniel Molly, the sheep, the cows, the swans, the moorhens and the Oystercatchers. We are heading north via Glasgow to Aberfoyle for 2 weeks in the Trossachs.
It was a long and almost uneventful journey except foe when we crossed Glasgow on the M74. It had been dull for most of the journey, but as we approached the big city, it got blacker and darker until the heavens opened, the thunder clapped, the lightening flashed and rain fell – in stair rods, the wipers could not clear the windscreens quick enough and we had to slow right down to stay safe- and we just hoped that everyone else was the doing the same as well!
We were at the camp site near Aberfolye before 5pm, and were thrilled to find that we had our own tap and drain, so life is going to be good for the water boy for the next 15 days!
It started to rain again as we were settling in so I had the bright idea to wash the outside of the caravan, which has been looking a bit grubby for a while. So with anorak on and newly acquired mop at the ready, I set about the task in hand, grateful that the van would be rinsed naturally, I must try that thought regularly as 5 mins later the sun came out and we all steam dried – after Chris came out as well to do the rinsing!!

Friday 4th - day 321

The weather forecast is lousy for the next few days, but today at least it promises some sun, so we set off for a tour round the Trossachs while they may be seen!!
We drove up to Aberfoyle, though did not stop, but made a right turn for Loch Venachar down Dukes Pass (it does have a bit of a ring that – going down the Dukes Pass to get to the Trossachs) We made several brief stops to capture the magnificent and expansive views, before turning left at the Brig O’ Turk to take a walk up to the viewing point above Glen Finglas Reservoir. By now the sun was beginning to shine, and the green of the bracken was an iridescent foil for all the many yellow, white and purple flower species. But the stars of the show had to be the butterflies, within 30 paces we had seen a powder blue one, an orange speckled one and a chocolate brown spotted one – and they were all lovely, as indeed was the view across the loch.
Our drive took us then past the Falls of Leny, which we stopped to walk down to, but there were too many trees in the way to really see their magnificence, so on past Loch Lubnaig, a popular spot for anglers. Our final destination was Balquidder where we had planned to spend a bit of time. We drove the five miles down a single track/no through road beside the banks of Lochs Voil and Doine to view the Braes of Balquidder, which were also as majestic as their names, but interestingly we both agreed that we didn’t feel drawn to walk them as we are so often in the Lakes, perhaps they were just too high for our capabilities, so felt outside our reach!
We also needed lunch (it was past 3pm) so we drove back along the waters edge and found an idyllic spot to picnic.
A good while later we returned to Balquidder to enjoy a stroll in the gorgeous early evening light looking back toward the Braes, and discovering another superb water fall, all broiling rush and brackish surge, its force obvious as we stood on the bridge overlooking it. Our last visit of the day was to Rob Roy’s grave at the little Kirk in the village.
We travelled back in the most magical light, crystal clear and bright, with foreboding clouds beyond the hills adding a touch of drama. The desire to stay out in it influenced the decision to stop for a pint even if we are broke! So by the time we returned to the caravan it was way past supper time!!

Saturday 5th - day 322

Well, the forecast was right, it is raining again, and there are no mountains visible so we are off to Glasgow to complete birthday shopping.
Whatever charms this city may have in the sunshine are certainly lost when it’s wet!
However we achieved all that was needed, and discovered John Lewis in the Buchanan Galleries, so we made a beeline for the coffee shop and shelter!
On the way back to the car we did pop into Princes Square, to remind ourselves of the lovely Macintosh style iron work and décor. It was still as expensive so we didn’t stay long! The day did not improve, and cold and soggy we returned to the car. With spirits also dampened we decided to go back to the caravan rather than go to a folk music session at the Lade Inn near Callander. We look forward to this weather improving!

Sunday 6th - day 323

We are still looking forward to the weather improving, which provides all the necessary excuses for a very lazy start!! However the skies were lightening by 2pm so we decided to drive up to Inversnaid by Loch Lomond to stretch our legs by the water. The 15 mile route took us down a no through road, past some dramatic scenery, (which was just about visible) and three little lochs Ard, Chon and Arklet to get to the Hotel Inversnaid by Lomond, and its lovely little harbour. By the time we arrived the sun was trying to fight its way through, and the earth was gently steaming (as were we).
We started our walk by taking a bridge over a beautiful waterfall which shared the same name as the hotel, before joining a narrow, windy and sometimes hazardous path that weaved its way through the old oak wood just above the waters edge, and the bracken glowed a luminous green. We searched for signs of life, binoculars at the ready, but apart from the yellow bottoms of what we hoped were Yellowhammers we saw nothing other than 5 cyclists (two of which were having problems with their bikes!) and 6 walkers carrying skyscrapers on their backs! – but no interesting birds! We walked as far as Cailness Burn – the wall map told us it was 6 km – and after enjoying the view for a few minutes we made our return to the hotel. By now the weather was so clement that we were able to drink our tea outside, sitting on the dock of the bay!